Run up and down volcanoes: check
Run through lava fields: check
See puffins: checkRide a snowmobile onSee a glacier: check
See a geyser erupt: check
Visit a lagoon: check
Experience a hot river: check
See beautiful sights and scenery: check
Meet new people and make new friends: check
Step out of my comfort zone for international solo travel: check
Eat good food: check
See a rainbow at the top of a mountain (not on my original list though several times at the summits we said all that was missing was a rainbow): check
See a troll church: didn't know that was a thing, but check
Have an epic adventure: check
Almost exactly two years ago, I found myself in a paradox. I was beginning to come back to life; feeling joy without the heavy burden of guilt, realizing I was ready not just to survive, but to truly live again. Despite the challenges, I was learning to embrace life once again. The sadness and grief remain, yet these past two years have brought a happiness I haven’t thought possible since the death of Ariella. I’ve taken deliberate steps toward healing, pushing far beyond my comfort zone, even traveling solo. This journey to Iceland is another chapter in that return to life.
This trip was an organized trail-running tour of Iceland with Rogue Expeditions (highly recommend. They visit spectacular places and handle all the planning and thinking so you don’t have to!). Still, there were parts that intimidated me: traveling internationally alone, meeting new people, spending a week in close quarters with strangers, and sharing about Ariella in those first conversations. But mostly I was buzzing with excitement in anticipation for this new adventure
I’ve been trying to put this trip into words for days, yet I keep coming up short. I could detail each day, but it would make for an endless post and still wouldn’t capture the depth of emotion or just how uniquely special each moment was. It was a week packed with activity; runs of course and sightseeing, lots of time on a bus, and getting to know new friends.
The runs were unlike anything I’d ever experienced; each one completely different from the last. Even within a single run, every ascent and every turn revealed something new and spectacular. One moment I was scrambling up steep, rocky terrain; the next, rounding a bend to find a glacier shimmering beside the rainbow mountains. Later, I was running with joy through a lava maze and then along the water’s edge; all in the same run. We climbed volcanoes, traversed grassy cliffs, crossed endless lava fields, and spotted sheep, puffins, and rainbows. The one constant was the staggering grandeur of the landscape; so magnificent and vast it made you feel small, as if the mountains had swallowed you whole. Some moments terrified me. Steep descents found me inching down slowly and cautiously, some times practically on all fours like a turtle doing a crabwalk, and narrow sideways paths found me clinging for dear life to chains and rocks while swearing under my breath (and I’m pretty sure out loud as well). More than once I questioned all my life choices that brought me here. When I finally crept and crawled to safety, the tears came; part stress, part relief that I hadn’t plummeted down a mountain, but mostly grief. I was missing Ariella greatly. And yet I felt so close to her in that moment. And I knew she was proud of me.
Getting to some of these runs was an adventure all its own. Bumpy, winding “roads” snaking through the highlands and straight through rivers. Yes, through the rivers. (No bridges in the highlands; it keeps things interesting.) Our guides were trained to read the water and choose the safest path, and they drove us straight through it, supposedly on skill and experience, though at times it felt more like a wing and a prayer. Luckily, we had the best driver in all of Iceland.
This trip was about far more than just running. We embraced our inner Icelanders; soaking in hot rivers, visiting lagoons and pools nearly every day, and chasing waterfalls and geysers. We devoured bottomless tomato soup in a greenhouse restaurant, enjoyed incredible meals, and spotted more horses and sheep than we could count. At one point, we even saw someone riding a horse while holding a beer, without spilling a drop (#runninggoals). We learned about Icelandic history and folklore, where trolls and elves are very real, and yes, there are even elf psychics. (Pro tip: never, ever try to move an elf rock.)
We had three amazing tour guides (one of whom was determined to see me finish every run and keep me from tumbling off any mountains) and, as mentioned before, the best driver in all of Iceland. Then there were the twelve other people who made the week unforgettable. We were all different, but united by a love of running and adventure. Whether we were cruising at party pace on a mountain trail, fighting the wind together, sharing a beer or a shot of Brennivín (with fermented shark, of course), or swapping jokes, we clicked. The trip was filled with laughter, camaraderie, encouragement, and the kind of support that turns strangers into friends.
I missed Ariella deeply this trip but also felt closer to her than I have in a while. She was there in the many rainbows we saw, especially the one at the summit of the mountain on our last day. She was there holding me at the most terrifying parts of the runs. She was at the puffins, a bird I know she would have loved with those orange beaks and feet. I can almost hear her protesting as I drag her away. Ariella would have loved Iceland. She would have soaked up the stories about the trolls and elves. In fact I’m pretty sure she was in cahoots with the elves to control the weather for our benefit. The forecast was not promising. But though it did rain everyday, we had great conditions (other than some wind and some misty rain) on all of our runs. Sometimes overcast but we also saw a fair amount of sunshine on this trip. The rain held off usually until we were back on the bus. We were definitely fortunate with the weather.
Iceland, you did not disappoint. (Okay, missing out on the snowmobile was a slight letdown but buggies made an excellent Plan B, and I’ll take bad weather on a non-running day over one of our runs any time.) From the near perfect weather conditions when running to the daily rainbows to the beautiful and magnificent and otherworldly landscapes to the waterfalls and geysers and volcanoes and hot rivers to the 40-miles of terrain I covered to the challenges I overcame, and especially to the people, this was truly a week I will never forget.
(Check back later for pictures. I always have difficulty adding pictures to this site but wanted to get my thoughts down while still somewhat fresh)